Annie Jones, Petersfield

PETERSFIELDIANS, if this is their collective name, and others passing through this attractive town have choices galore. No wonder discerning diners from afar make a beeline for some of the best restaurants in the area. Tucked away down Lavant Street is Annie Jones, another long-lived restaurant which hides its light under a bushel. Regulars keep this small neighbourhood place to themselves, it seems. Nary a peep about Annie Jones do I hear, the tom toms strangely silent. Why?
When I last reviewed this restaurant in 2003, its ceiling had a dried hop forest clinging to it, chef/owner Steve Ranson deciding on further refurb at the time. But maybe people power intervened and Steve has left the tiny restaurant with its characterful narrow pews pretty well intact bar the branches.
The look is San Francisco Boho meets Jonathan Swift's Gulliver's Travels. Lilliputian benches contrast with outsized candles in medieval-type wooden holders and the effect is cosy, friendly and calming.
Jazzy world music plays without causing any distraction.
The menu hasn't changed much, the kitchen producing seasonal, modern English cuisine with little fanfare but a lot of talent.
Lunch, a bargain at £12.95 for two courses (£14. 95 for three), lists a minestrone verde with pesto, moules Mariniere, Merguez sausage with chilli garlic, spinach and olives or other starters.
Slow-braised lamb shank with slow-cooked onions and parsnip puree, polenta and mascarpone cake with a Sicilian aubergine stew, chicken breast with risotto squash and pancetta or local cod with potato gnocchi and salsa verde may follow. The Early Bird (from 6pm-7.30pm, Tue-Thu) is even more impressively-priced, with many of the same dishes available (£10.95 for two courses, £14.95 for three).
The a la carte menu is a variation on a theme of many ingredients found in these two menus, with the addition of venison and quail. And, boy, does this chef love his root veg, with squashes, onions, pumpkin and parsnips making welcome, wintry appearances galore.
My smoked haddock ravioli with crispy pancetta and peas was an ace starter if a trifle runny, thin fishy juices having escaped into the vast, heavy white-brimmed bowl. The peas added a touch of sweetness to the wonderfully moreish haddock, the ravioli cooked to al dente perfection.
Steve obviously has a sense of humour which appeals to me, the beautifully-presented lamb shank's bone sporting jaunty sprigs of lavender. This dish again demonstrated his prowess at the stoves, with the meat falling off the bone and the mash adding more unctuousness to the flavours. A bowl of perfectly-cooked seasonal veg included, of course, squash and pumpkin and excellent pommes Dauphinoise.
I rarely go for three courses, but what do you do when you just know the kitchen will provide a fab pud if the first two courses are anything to go by – and what's not to like for an extra £2?
A perfectly-pitched lemon tart proved my point. Tart, light and with a vestige of honey drizzled over mascarpone on a stylish rectangular white plate, it wowed.
As did the service by the young waitress. Friendly, polished, astute and customer-aware, she added a further dimension to the Annie Jones experience.
Bread is also tops, as is the wine list including a remarkable Saint Cirice French syrah.
Worth the journey? You bet. Petersfield, be prepared to be mobbed by discerning diners, tom toms at the ready.
My bill came to £21.28 including 10 per cent service.

Annie Jones, 10 Lavant Street, Petersfield. 01730 262728.
Open: Midday-2pm, Wed-Sun. Early Bird: Tue-Thu 6pm-7.30pm. Evenings: Tue-Sat 7pm-10pm.
Food: *****
Service: *****
Atmosphere: ****
Smoking: No.
Disabled access: At a pinch.
How to get there: Take the A3 to Petersfield, exit on the B2070 (The Causeway) which becomes Dragon Street. Turn left at the Memorial down the High Street then left at Lavant Street once past the market square. Annie Jones is on the left. On-street parking. Bus: 38 and many others